When the sebum is in excess, skin problems are never far away … From pimples to blackheads and other shine, it must be gently purified, mattified with the right products and help to regain a balance at long term. Update with several specialists.
After 35 years, many women find that their skin changes. More oily, it easily becomes prone to imperfections (pimples, blackheads, etc.). If pollution is undoubtedly involved, it is above all the lifestyle and hormonal changes that trigger this phenomenon. Between the ages of 35 and 45, many women have to lead an active professional life and a busy family life. Fatigue and stress are often present. To make matters worse, there is no time to take care of yourself. ” This period also often corresponds to a change in contraception with stopping the pill and fitting an IUD. », Specifies Dr Pascale Neulat.
Unbalanced, the skin produces an excess of sebum, the abnormal composition of which makes the complexion gray and makes the famous T zone shine (forehead, nose, chin). The pores dilate and skin imperfections appear. Blackheads and microcysts, or even more or less severe acne, including inflammatory pimples appear on the lower face. In crisis, these skins must constantly juggle the need to be hydrated and the need to be purified.
Therefore, what are the right rituals to cleanse and treat them, in order to balance them durably and how to reconcile them with an anti-aging treatment?
Daily care at home
Combination, oily or acne-prone skin is just as sensitive as any other. It needs just as much to be hydrated and should especially not be stripped by cleaning or too aggressive cosmetics. Irritated, it would risk producing more sebum and increasing the number of imperfections. Before any treatment, including cleaning, wash your hands with soap so as not to risk contaminating the skin with bad bacteria …
A very gentle make-up removal
In the evening, a soap-free washing cream rinsed with lukewarm water. The goal ? Perfectly eliminate pollution, impurities and fatty substances. We then laugh so as not to leave any residue.
In the morning, a specific micellar water for combination and oily skin is perfectly suitable. We avoid too fatty milk which promotes comedones.
Flawless hydration
The day cream is both moisturizing and mattifying, thanks to absorbent powders and sebum-regulating active ingredients, the fluid texture of which is applied in a light film on the face. At night, ensure good hydration in areas that need it such as the cheeks with a non-comedogenic cream that is a little richer than during the day. Do a double blow with retinaldehyde which has both anti-aging and anti-imperfection action, in the form of a light fluid to slip under the night cream (like TriAcnéal Expert, Avène).
Exfoliation under control
To improve the radiance of the complexion and refine the skin texture, A one-month treatment with AHAs (fruit acids), at the rate of 2 applications per week, it is ideal, especially as they have also anti-aging properties. We opt for a “night peeling” cream with 15 or 30% fruit acids depending on its sensitivity.
Local treatment of the pimple
Between flesh and skin, the inflammatory red pimple is painful. Before applying your usual care, put a touch of antibacterial care on a cotton swab, in order to brush directly on the button. Renew the application two to three times a day to accelerate its disappearance.
Effective solutions for dermatologists
In addition to classic cosmetic treatments, combination, oily or acne-prone skin has every interest in making an appointment several times a year with the dermatologist. Within his office, this skin specialist offers certain medical techniques that are both effective and safe.
Skin cleansing to remove pimples
If blackheads (open comedones) can be removed at home with the greatest care, only the dermatologist can perform a “medical skin cleansing”, that is to say, the extraction of closed comedones (or microcysts) on the face and décolleté.
How it works ? The doctor cuts the clogged pores before extracting the sebum with a blackhead remover.
In practice : To be done twice a year between October and March, for the price of a consultation, or on average 70 €, (reimbursed as part of an anti-acne treatment).
The peel for a new skin
Dosed at more than 35% glycolic acid, a medium peel can act on the clarity of the complexion, rebalance sebum production and reduce aging marks such as fine lines.
How it works ? By eliminating the superficial layer of the epidermis, it makes it possible to erase all surface irregularities, and therefore to find a smoother epidermis.
In practice : Count 4 to 6 sessions of 30 minutes, spaced 15 days apart, between October and March, from € 90 per session, not reimbursed.
LEDs to improve acne
More recent, light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are particularly interesting for eliminating persistent imperfections, improving the radiance of the complexion and fighting against inflammatory acne.
How it works ? LED phototherapy combines blue light which attacks the P.acnes bacteria and red light, whose anti-inflammatory action ensures better healing.
In practice : Allow 6 to 12 sessions of 20 minutes once a week, between € 90 and € 120 per session, not reimbursed.
Recommended care for combination and oily skin
Micellar water : enriched with purifying active ingredients, zinc gluconate and copper sulphate, it ensures perfect make-up removal while purifying the epidermis and limiting sebaceous secretion.
Sébium H2O purifying micellar cleansing solution, Bioderma, € 13 for 250 ml.
Washing cream : Soap-free and fragrance-free, but with a lime neutralizing agent, as well as a creamy texture, this gel offers a delicate cleansing of fragile skin.
Softening Foaming Gel Normal to Combination Intolerant Skin Toleriane, La Roche Posay, € 11.50 for 150 ml.
Anti-marks: more than just a moisturizer, this soothing and repairing treatment with a micro-aerated foam texture fights inflammation and residual red and brown marks (with 5% Niacinamide).
Sebiaclear Hydra, SVR, 9 € les 40 ml.
Day care : its evanescent texture with vegetable micro-pearls and hyaluronic acid glides over the skin to mattify, smooth and moisturize in a single gesture.
Rebalancing Evanescent Jelly La Perle du Marabout, Garancia, € 31.50 for 30 ml.
Triple action serum : anti-imperfections, anti-marks, anti-aging, it combines the best of active ingredients (myrtacin, azelaic acid, vitamin PP, monolaurin, glycolic acid) for a clearer and mattified skin.
Keracnyl Serum, Ducray, € 16.50 for 30 ml.
Anti-bacterial care: on contact with the skin, this gel transforms the benzoyl peroxide it contains into benzoic acid, then into oxygen, effectively destroying the bacteria responsible for inflammatory pimples.
Curaspot 5%, treatment of acne of moderate severity, Galderma, € 13 for 100 g.
Night cream : a night cream concentrated at 30% glycolic acid and 5% ascorbosilane C to reduce wrinkles and surface irregularities and deeply regenerate the skin.
Advanced C Cream, Eneomey, 51 € les 50 ml.
Night lotion: enriched with 4% glycolic acid and fermented black tea extract, it is applied with a cotton ball to gently exfoliate all skin types, even the most sensitive.
Idealia radiance activator Night Peeling Care, Vichy, € 30.50 for 100 ml.
Stick camouflage : Clever, it combines the precision of a stick, the coverage of a tinted corrector and an anti-blemish action (sebum-regulating zinc, bactericidal ichthyol, astringent witch hazel).
Gray Paste Covering Stick, Payot, € 17.50 for 1.6 g.
